Memories from Growing Up Jersey
By Chef Charles Knight
Some of the sweetest memories of my childhood begin down the Shore.
Growing up in Jersey during the 1950s and 60s, summers Down the Shore were more than just a day at the beach — they were an event. Families packed folding chairs and coolers into station wagons, kids carried beach towels under their arms, and the smell of salt air mixed with popcorn, pizza, sausage sandwiches, and fried dough floated through the boardwalk crowds.
But for me, one smell stood above all the others. Zeppoles.
Warm, golden, sugar-covered zeppoles.
My best friend’s father, Melio Paolantonio, operated a small zeppole stand on the Keansburg Boardwalk, and to this day I can still picture him working behind the counter with flour on his apron and a smile on his face. Melio was more than a great cook — he was part of a generation that carried old-world Italian traditions into American life.
Back then, recipes weren’t written down. They were passed from hand to hand, kitchen to kitchen, and heart to heart.
Melio’s zeppoles were unforgettable. Light and airy inside, crisp and golden outside, dusted generously with powdered sugar while still hot. You could smell them halfway down the boardwalk, and once you tasted one, there was no forgetting it.
I didn’t realize at the time that I was witnessing Jersey culinary history.
Looking back, I understand those recipes likely made their way through Ellis Island in the late 1800s with Italian immigrant families searching for a new life in America. What they brought with them was more than food — it was culture, family pride, and tradition.
Rahway, my hometown, was a melting pot of hardworking families from every corner of Europe. Italian, Polish, Irish, and Eastern European kitchens filled the neighborhoods with incredible aromas and unforgettable meals. Food connected everyone. It was how people celebrated, comforted one another, and stayed tied to their roots.
Those experiences shaped me in many ways.
Years later, I realized that the foods we remember most are rarely the fanciest meals. They’re the foods connected to people, places, and moments in our lives. For me, zeppoles will always mean summer nights, boardwalk lights, and Melio standing over a fryer on the Keansburg Boardwalk.
Today, I still make zeppoles the same way I learned all those years ago — simple ingredients, careful technique, and plenty of elbow grease. Dough stirred by hand with a wooden spoon. Because some traditions are too good not to pass on.
Melio’s Traditional Zeppole Recipe
Preparation Time
About 1 hour
Makes
16–20 zeppoles
Ingredients
- 1 cup water
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- Pinch of salt
- 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
- 3 whole eggs, beaten
- ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
- 5 cups light olive oil or vegetable oil, for frying
- Powdered sugar for finishing
Preparing the Dough
The home method... In a medium-size stockpot over medium heat, bring the water, butter, sugar, and salt to a rolling boil.
Add the sifted flour and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a smooth ball.
Remove from the heat and allow the dough to cool slightly for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the beaten eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition until the batter becomes smooth, glossy, and slightly sticky. Stir in the vanilla extract if desired.
Frying the Zeppoles
Heat the oil in a heavy stockpot or deep fryer to 350°F (180°C).
Maintaining the correct oil temperature is important. If the oil is too hot, the zeppoles will brown too quickly and remain undercooked inside. If the oil is too cool, they will absorb excess oil and become heavy.
Using a rounded tablespoon, carefully drop portions of dough into the hot oil, frying only a few at a time so they can float freely.
Turn occasionally with a slotted spoon or skimmer until puffed and golden brown on all sides, about 4 to 6 minutes.
Transfer to paper towels or brown paper bags to drain.
The Final Touch
Place in a small brown paper bag, and dust generously with powdered sugar and serve warm.
One bite brings me right back to the Keansburg Boardwalk — summer nights, ocean air, laughter, and Melio’s famous zeppoles fresh from the fryer.
Melio was a good man in many ways. I miss him and his son Ronnie, and Anna.
From my family to yours — enjoy.
