Bacon fat, Butter, Fresh Cream, and SCHMALTZ - NJ Culinary History by Chef Charles Knight

Bacon fat, Butter, Fresh Cream, and SCHMALTZ - NJ Culinary History by Chef Charles Knight

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Growing up in New Jersey and reflecting on my memories of the past, it's hard not to feel a sense of nostalgia for simpler times when food was not just consumed but celebrated. Back in the 1950s, the ritual of milk delivery to insulated containers at our back doors brought a sense of community and reliance on wholesome, local ingredients. I remember my dad scooping the cream off the top, savoring its richness, and storing it in a special stainless-steel container to elevate his morning coffee unless, of course, I got to it first! In the winter, with a sprinkle of sugar or honey, it was ice cream, and I still have that stainless-steel cream container. It is now used for Schmaltz.

Long gone are the days when traditional methods of storing food included keeping butter in a covered dish, storing eggs in a bowl next to a cup of bacon fat rendered through cheesecloth, all left out on the countertop. These outdated practices highlight a significant evolution in food safety. Maintaining the quality and freshness of our food requires innovative storage solutions that align with modern health standards.

Then there was Schmaltz, with its delicious essence, which evokes a wave of nostalgia that connects us to simpler times and traditional cooking methods. Long before the convenience of store-bought chicken bouillon, home cooks relied on schmaltz as a staple in their kitchens. This flavorful fat, derived from rendered chicken, has its roots in Ashkenazi Jewish culture, where it played a significant role in creating comforting, hearty dishes. Schmaltz is derived from the Yiddish word for rendered chicken fat is schmelzen, meaning to melt.

Schmaltz is a cooking fat; it's a flavorful alternative that enhances the taste of your meals while offering a more wholesome option compared to many modern fats. Sautéing vegetables in schmaltz infuses them with a depth of flavor that modern oils cannot replicate. Or consider using it in your favorite recipes, from matzo balls to roasted potatoes, to create a comforting dish that warms the soul.

What does schmaltz taste like? Imagine the taste of butter infused with the taste of fried chicken, but with a lightness that melts in the mouth.

Simply put, Schmaltz is rendered chicken fat, made by simmering chunks of skin-on, bone-in chicken parts and chopped onion in a pan over low heat for a long amount of time. The heat turns the chicken fat from solid to liquid, and it eventually melts out of the chicken and into the pan, a process called “rendering.”

Frying chicken skin in a skillet is much like frying bacon; Jewish bacon, known as “Gribenes”, can add a Yiddish delicacy to your schmaltz. This process is one of many techniques Jews have developed for working around the rules of Kashrut or eating Kosher.

Our bodies need fat to function properly, and certain fats can reduce your risk of cardiovascular problems. Chicken is rich in healthy fats and lower in unhealthy fats than red meat.

Schmaltz is used in many traditional Jewish dishes. It is added to latkes, stirred into chopped liver, and is a key by-product of making Gribenes—salty, addictively crispy chicken cracklings.

Schmaltz will last for up to six months in the freezer. The best way to obtain chicken skin and fat is to collect trimmings in the freezer every time you buy a whole bird.

  • Melt it and use it to make mayonnaise or salad dressings.
  • Use it to crisp up potato latkes or caramelize onions on the stovetop.
  • Toss it with potatoes and root vegetables add extra flavor to roasted vegetables.
  • Use schmaltz instead of butter or oil in cornbread, biscuits, or tortillas.

EQUIPMENT: 6-quart stockpot

PREPARATION TIME: 1 hour 30 minutes

INGREDIENTS:

  • ·       1-pound chicken skin and fat, cut into narrow ½-inch pieces
  • ·       1 teaspoon kosher salt (do not use iodized table salt)
  • ·       ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • ·       1 onion, sliced into thin ¼ inch pieces
  • ·       3 to 4 quarts of purified water (do not use chlorinated tap water)

DIRECTIONS:

In the stockpot, combine chicken fat and skin with just enough water to barely cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat 275 - 300F, then lower heat to medium-low 225F and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until water has cooked off and the fat is rendered. Chicken skin and fat should be small and browned by this time, and start to crisp, about 50 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently until lightly browned, for about 10 to 15 minutes.

Strain rendered chicken fat (schmaltz) through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth. Reserve crisped chicken skin, fat, and onion, they can be eaten as a snack with salt or stirred into chopped liver.

We invite you to explore the many benefits of incorporating schmaltz into your cooking. Share your own experiences and beloved recipes that feature this timeless ingredient. By fostering a community centered around healthy and flavorful cooking, we can keep the tradition of schmaltz alive and thriving in our kitchens. Join us as we celebrate the beauty of wholesome, flavorful meals that connect us to our past while nourishing our present.

Chef Charles Knight