A Slice of Heaven That Started It All

How Al's Pizzeria Inspired a Lifetime in the Kitchen

By Chef Charles Knight

The first licensed pizzeria in America, Lombardi's, opened in New York City in 1905. As Italian immigrants settled throughout New Jersey during the 1920s and 1930s, family-owned pizzerias began appearing in towns across the state. By the 1950s, pizza had become a way of life throughout the Northeast.

Traditional Italian tomato pies were often baked in square or rectangular pans with a thick, focaccia-style crust and little or no cheese. New Jersey eventually developed its own identity. The famous Trenton tomato pie featured a thin, round crust with mozzarella cheese placed on the dough first and the tomato sauce spread over the top.

Today, New Jersey is home to more than 2,000 pizzerias, and most lifelong New Jerseyans will tell you—with complete confidence—that the Garden State makes the finest pizza in America.

I'm one of them.

In 1957, Al's Pizzeria opened at 72 Westfield Avenue in Clark, New Jersey, just around the corner and up the block from my parents' home at 1276 Broadway in Rahway. I was ten years old, and suddenly my neighborhood was complete.

Within walking distance we had Koss & Son Hardware and Lumber, Merritt Supermarket, O'Johnnie's Candy Store, Sal's Barber Shop, Baumel's Liquor Store, the neighborhood tavern, the American Legion, the VFW... and now, Al's Pizzeria.

To a kid growing up in the 1950s, life simply didn't get much better.

Back then, twenty-five cents bought a slice of (heaven) tomato pie and an ice-cold Coke. It wasn't just inexpensive—it was wonderful.

Watching a Master at Work

Al Stiso and his wife, Theresa, were a special kind of people.

Friendly.

Hardworking.

Devoted to family.

They had a way of making everyone feel welcome, especially kids.

I was one of them.

I spent countless afternoons standing at the serving window, watching every move Al made and making mental notes without even realizing it.

I watched him stretch the dough.

Spread the tomatoes.

Sprinkle the seasonings.

Slide another beautiful pie into the oven.

At ten years old, I thought I was simply watching someone make pizza.

Years later, I realized I had been watching a master craftsman at work.

Little did I know that those afternoons at Al's would become some of the earliest lessons of my culinary education.

Coming Full Circle

Although Big Al is no longer with us, his legacy lives on.

His daughter, Janet, and his son, Al Stiso Jr.—"Little Al"—remain good friends.

A few years ago, Little Al and I got together at his home "Down the Shore" to make pizza and reminisce about growing up "Rahway".

As we stretched dough, built pizzas, and shared stories, we laughed about old friends, neighborhood memories, and the people who helped shape our lives.

Along the way, Little Al shared stories about his father and family that I had never heard before.

For me, it wasn't simply another afternoon making pizza.

It was an opportunity to reconnect with a lifelong friend and thank the family that unknowingly inspired my own lifetime in the kitchen.

Some friendships only grow stronger with time.

So do the memories.

Today, nearly seventy years have passed, and remarkably, much of Al's Pizzeria remains just as I remember. The building is still there - so location is the same. The furniture hasn't changed. Much of the interior still feels familiar, and the pizza is every bit as good as it was back then.

The only thing that has changed is the name.

What I knew as Al's Pizzeria is now Pompei Pizzeria.

Every time I walk through those doors, I'm reminded that some places never really leave you. They simply become part of who you are.

Thanks, Al.

The Secret to Great Pizza Dough

People often ask me what makes exceptional pizza dough.

Many expect the answer to be imported tomatoes or expensive flour.

Those ingredients certainly matter, but the real secret begins with patience.

Allowing the dough to ferment overnight develops remarkable flavor and creates the light, chewy texture that defines great New Jersey pizza.

Water also matters.

Whenever possible, use filtered water. Chlorine and chloramine found in many municipal water supplies can interfere with yeast activity. Good filtered water allows the yeast to develop naturally and consistently, producing a better rise and better flavor.

The rest is simple.

Good flour.

Good tomatoes.

Good mozzarella.

A hot oven.

And time.

New Jersey Tomato Pie

Dough Ingredients

• 3 pounds Italian "00" flour (about 10 level cups)
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2 cups filtered water (110°F)
• 1 packet rapid-rise yeast
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.

In a measuring cup, combine the warm filtered water, yeast, sugar, and olive oil. Allow the mixture to stand for 5 to 10 minutes until the yeast becomes active.

With the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the liquid ingredients until the dough forms a smooth, firm ball.

Continue kneading for one minute. If necessary, add up to ¼ cup additional warm water.

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Cover and let it rest for 15 minutes before kneading briefly by hand.

Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and allow it to rise until doubled.

Divide into four or five equal portions, shape into smooth balls, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Remove from refrigeration two to three hours before baking.

The Sauce

Run two 28-ounce cans of San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes through a food mill or potato ricer to remove the seeds and create a silky sauce.

Season lightly with:

• Dried oregano
• Garlic powder
• Onion powder
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Kosher salt (optional)

Do not cook the sauce.

Fresh tomatoes develop their best flavor while baking directly on the pizza.

Baking

Preheat a pizza stone or baking steel to 550°F for at least one hour.

Stretch the dough into a 12- to 13-inch round.

For a traditional New Jersey tomato pie, place a light layer of mozzarella on the dough first, followed by your favorite toppings. Spoon the tomato sauce over the top, sprinkle with oregano, and finish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Bake until the crust is crisp, beautifully browned, and the sauce begins to caramelize around the edges.

One Final Thought

More than sixty years have passed since I first stood at the serving window of Al's Pizzeria.

I've spent my life in kitchens, written cookbooks, taught healthy cooking, and prepared meals for thousands of people.

Yet every time I stretch a ball of pizza or bread dough, I still think about Big Al.

Looking back, I realize the greatest ingredient he ever put into his pizzas wasn't the tomatoes, the flour, or the cheese.

It was pride.

You could taste it in every slice.